Bhutan – Journey through the land of the Thunderdragon
Journey to the land of the thunderdragon
We had originally planned this journey for 2020. Unfortunately, the coronavirus pandemic made it impossible to travel as planned. We kept postponing the trip and finally flew to Paro via Bangkok in April 2023.
Due to the flight times we had to spend a night in Bangkok and then fly from Bangkok to Paro at 05:30 the next day. and then fly to Paro the next morning at 05:30. We spent a lovely afternoon at the Peninsula and went to bed relatively early.
The flight to Paro was pleasant and we could see the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas on the approach. The landing approach to Paro is quite an experience!
We were picked up at the airport by our driver and our guide and taken to Thimphu, the capital, to Amankora Thimpu Lodge. The luxury chain Aman was the first hotel chain to build 5 hotels in Bhutan some time ago and runs them under the name “Amankora”.
The hotels are beautifully located and offer all services, excellent food and excursions. The rooms are very large and beautifully furnished. However, it’s about time they were renovated. Personally, I don’t think the Amankora in Thimphu is that great, whereas the Aman in Paro and especially the one in Punakha are stunning.
Thimpu is now a vibrant town, but I don’t think it’s worth staying there for 2 nights, as the town is interesting, but not particularly beautiful. It would be best to stay in Paro and then start the circuit to Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang and perhaps stay 3 nights in Punakha;
In Thimphu, the textile museum is particularly interesting, as well as the hike through the forests with a view of the city. Otherwise, it must be said that Thimphu is not that exciting.
The journey to Punakha takes us over several passes, through forests and beautiful rhododenron groves. They were in full bloom in spring! We stopped at a few monasteries and were able to admire the landscape and architecture. In the forests you can see colourful prayer flags everywhere, which give this beautiful, highly interesting Buddhist country its character.
Punakha itself is actually a long village along the river, dominated by the huge monastery palace, the Dhzong. Visiting the various dhzongs on our trip was a highlight every time!
We didn’t stay in the nicest hotels in Phunakha, but our lodge was ok. However, we did visit the Uma Como Hotel, the Amankora and the & beyond Punakha Lodge, which was still under construction in April. It is now open and I hope to be able to try it out soon on a new trip to Bhutan.
The Uma Como Lodge is beautifully situated on a hill with a fantastic view over the valley to the snow-covered mountains. Very nice rooms, very cosy and not overly luxurious!
Amankora Lodge is situated on the opposite bank of the river with a great view over the valley. Spacious gardens, the main house is an old residential building in traditional style. The rooms are housed in two large, modern buildings. Not really my style. However, the pool is stunning, with marvellous views.
The & Beyond Punakha Lodge is located at the bottom of the valley by the river. It is beautiful and I have great expectations!
In Punakha we also did a great white water rafting trip, which was wonderful! Arrival at the foot of the monastery palace!
The journey to Gangtey took us over several mountain passes again Gangtey is situated at some altitude and our lodge, Gangtey Lodge was the best on the whole trip; very beautifully situated near the dzong, with a great view over the valley. Here we enjoyed the best cuisine of the whole trip. Gangtey Lodge is rightly a member of Small Luxury Hotels. From here we went on an almost all-day hike up to over 4000 metres through rhododendron forests. The programme also included a great bike tour through the village and the valley We visited the dzong twice and were able to watch the monastery students studying there.
From Gangtey we travelled on to Paro, but the route took us back the same way we had come. So it would have been better to continue to Bhumtang, spend two days there and fly to Paro from there.
The country is really something special! The people are all traditionally dressed and extremely friendly!
To drive to Paro, you drive past Thimpu and the airport to Paro again.
There we stayed at the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary Lodge, also a member of Small Luxury Hotels. Unfortunately, we didn’t like this lodge at all. The location is beautiful, with a view over the valley, but the service and cuisine were really not great. The room was fine, but I wouldn’t recommend the lodge itself or book it for clients.
The Como in Paro, which we visited, and the Amankora Paro are much nicer.
In Paro we drove up the valley, visited Como and Amankora and then went up to Tiger’s Nest. However, we rode up on horseback, which was a great experience. The way back was on foot. You can ride up on horseback to a great viewpoint or restaurant. From there you have to trek further up to Tiger’s Nest, which is absolutely worth it, even if there were a lot of people on the way.
Tiger’s Nest is a highlight of any trip to Bhutan, but the monastery burnt down a few years ago and was rebuilt.
All in all, it was a wonderful and above all extremely interesting trip, with lots of activities such as white water rafting, horse riding and trekking. Above all, we loved the fantastic monasteries and the friendly people!
Travelling to Bhutan is neither easy nor cheap. There are only flights with connections in Delhi or Bangkok, as well as Singapore, which makes the journey much longer. Flights from Delhi, Bangkok or Singapore to Paro are very expensive.
In addition, you are obliged to take a driver and a guide and book a pre-organised itinerary in order to get a visa at all. you can do very little on your own. You also have to pay a daily fee of currently US$ 50 per person, which keeps changing.
All this in the name of sustainable tourism. Mass tourism should be avoided, which is achieved by the prices alone. However, you can enjoy the country without the crowds, breathtaking landscapes and buildings, as well as warm and friendly people.
For a 10-day trip through Bhutan, you will need to budget around €8-10,000, depending on the hotel category you choose
But it’s definitely worth it, the strip is one of the last unspoilt destinations in the world, far away from any mass tourism.
I will definitely be travelling to Bhutan again in the near future, perhaps in combination with Nepal.
